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| On Nagasaki heights |
I will leave aside the subject of the suicide bombers for now and open a small chapter on the side; one of the milestones of my trip to Japan: the city of Nagasaki. I basically do it for two reasons: For one, Nagasaki is often left aside in the Japanese and international tourist circuit at the expense of Hiroshima. It is a pity for those who do not visit it because, as the travel guides say, Nagasaki is one of the most picturesque cities in Japan! And in many ways I think it's true.
Secondly, in these uncertain times Nagasaki is a good opportunity to address the topic of the atomic bomb, theme back in fashion since the election of Trump. The very real atomic threat that threatens our lives should not be taken lightly ...
In Nagasaki the historical truth reappears in front of us.
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| Uchida Kuichi - Nagasaki, 1870 |
Nagasaki is a former trading post open to China and Europe, even during the Edo period, when Japan was closed on itself for 200 years. Nagasaki is a cosmopolitan port city where you immediately feel welcome. Located in an arbor, the old town with its popular districts, Chinese and Dutch, and its churches (1 / 6th of the Catholics in Japan), feels like a Mediterranean port. It is set in a narrow valley overlooking the bay, isolated by steep hills from the modern part of the city that includes the industrial port area, the railway station, the major schools, the universities, the colleges, the stadiums, and the hospitals. The city was already mapped this way on August 9, 1945 at 11:02 am when "Fat Man" exploded behind the hills to the north of the old city center. This geographical feature has allowed Nagasaki to preserve a large part of its cultural heritage despite a bomb almost twice as powerful as that of Hiroshima (Little Boy). It's hard to believe that an atomic bomb exploded here ... You have to go to the hypocentre and the atomic bomb museum to see the extent of the tragedy, but I'll come back to that. (See page "Fat Man" atomic bomb)
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| Nagasaki seen from the hills |
The youth hostel (very good address) is located on the banks of the Nakashima River, a few steps from the city center. A series of old stone bridges cross the two banks, the hillsides are covered to the north by Temples and old cemeteries offering very beautiful walks. At the top of it is a large park with a view of the whole bay, the ground is covered with white-rose petals, almost as if it had snowed; it is the end of the Sakura Zensen.
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| Old cemetery |
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| Shinto temple |
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| Buddhist temple |
On the opposite hills, the old neighbourhoods with their Chinese temples and Dutch colonial houses descend in narrow lanes to Shiambashi, the old district of the Geishas where you find today a multitude of tiny bars and Isakayas, a great pleasure for the night owls. An enjoyable place to communicate with the locals who have their tongues loosened up by alcohol. Much more friendly and authentic than in Kyoto, much cheaper than the Golden Gai in Tokyo. Really, I recommend!
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| Colonial Dutch Houses with Japanese style roofs |
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| Morning in Shiambashi |
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